I believe art to be an abstract term (like love) that people use to define a beautiful creation. First and foremost the beauty is dependent on God. God is beauty and his work is beautiful. His creation was spoken into existence and all things obey his voice. Art, as beautiful creation, is self-evident and is enjoyable. All the creations of humans are not entirely beautiful, because sin, death, and darkness have twisted the beautiful creation of God. Our eyes and ears can no longer perceive God’s beauty, nor can we complete a piece of art that is perfectly beautiful. Artists can only create small, and sometimes random, snapshots that impress and inspire. To what effect are we impressed or inspired? We see dimly the beauty of our Creator and designer, but again to little effect. Our concept of beauty is cheapened, and we delight in things that bring pleasure, and we mistake this pleasure for beauty. This pursuit of pleasure and beauty has no real foundation nor does it draw us into the goal – to see the beauty of God. Truly, artists can discover principles of art within nature, and they can create beautiful work.  Nevertheless, their work is muddied in the realm of darkness. We are trying to see in the darkness and create in the shadows until the light draws us to the True Artist of Creation. The whole creation groans under this dark oppression. Deep within all the creation are desires for the goodness and virtue of God. It is what brings not only life, but beauty into life!

Since we long for the beauty of God and cannot find it, we need to be enlightened by God’s grace through faith. We need the very word of God to affect us and reframe us or make us into a new creation. We need the very virtue and goodness of God to dwell in us and lighten our eyes so that not only do we see what true beauty is, but we can do work that is beautiful. To what effect? To draw the eye and the ear of all to see the virtue and beauty of the one true God and humble themselves to his voice.

That is why virtue must guide an artist’s work! Virtue is that goodness and sweetness that we long for in all things we do. Again, God is virtue, God is truth, God is love, and it is these elements in which keep life abundant and vibrant. Art, must be inspired by God’s virtue. God’s virtue is moral excellence, but it is also the power and force that gives meaning to anything we think or do. God’s virtue in us must have three qualities – balance, habitual action, and a just end. When virtue is balanced it means having a healthy amount or a wise application of a good character trait. Virtue is right action in habit – meaning that virtue can’t simply be a thought and it can’t come to action occasionally. Virtue requires a just end – the goal must be for good and must reward goodness and condemn vice.

Virtue guides my work:

• when I allow God to guide my work.
• when out of habit (and practiced skill), I shape and form with talent what has been taught to me by God.
• when I work with a firm disposition to create the good.
• when I give the best of me to glorify God.

Since we are created in God’s image, we are God’s image-bearers, and anything anyone does or creates has some form of beauty. However, beautiful creation only resorts to idolatry until it finds its true utility in God. Art, inspired by virtue is useful in itself because it inspires guidance by God, reflects God, and enlightens the soul of living creation toward God. Virtue-inspired art therefore is the most refined form of art! It is in this art we find true delight!

“For we are his workmanship, created in Christ Jesus for good works, which God prepared beforehand, that we should walk in them.” Ephesians 2:10

(note: the Greek word for workmanship is ποίημα or poiēma which is the etymology of our word “poem” or “poetry.” It is a “work” of beauty!)

You will be the owner of an authentic work of art created by Chisel Point! This art is limited in edition, not sold in stores, and represents not only your great taste for art, but your connection to the maker! Each creation is an inspiration to cherish beauty, encourage enthusiasm and wonder, and is an authentic expression of God’s creative work in and through his Chisel Point artist.

Authentic Chainsaw Art

Chainsaw carving art is austere and rugged in nature; naturally, your piece will be rustic, form cracks, and give the appearance of chainsaw marks. A wood sculpture or carving should last for several years if it is properly cared for.  Your carving will crack. It’s the nature of a log to crack as it dries due to humidity changes. The smaller cracks are not considered defects. It is part of the process, and it adds character to your piece. There are, however, some ways to prevent major cracking.

• Unfinished Carvings: Most chainsaw carvings are designed for outdoor display.
  • Option 1: You like the natural look of the wood and want to keep it looking natural.
    You’ll need to purchase boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Mix these two 50/50 and brush on as many layers as you like (e.g. 1-3 layers per day for 5 days)
    Finally, if you want to preserve your piece from UV rays, mold, and mildew then apply 2-3 coats of spar varnish (follow the directions on the can).
  • Option 2: You love the carving, but you think it needs color or stain.
    You’ll need to purchase boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Mix these two 50/50 and brush on about six coats of this mixture and let it dry for a day.
    Add paint of your choice or stain to those parts that you want colored. Allow the color to dry.
    Lightly spray a coat of spar urethane, clear satin over the painted areas to preserve the color.
    Finally, to preserve your piece from UV rays, mold, and mildew apply 2-3 coats of spar varnish (follow the directions on the can).
  • Option 3: You purchased your unfinished carving with paint on it.
    Apply a coat of Satin Clear Oil-Based Spar Urethane within 24-48 hours. After 24 hours of applying the first coat apply another coat of satin spar varnish (following the directions on the can). Alternatively, you could use Clear Satin Spar Urethane Spray (following the directions on the can).

• Attached Stump or Trunk Carving: Leaving the roots connected leaves the carving connected with its watering system. That means the inside of the carving stays moist while the outside of the carving, being preserved, keeps outside moisture out, and leaves internal moisture in. This may result in mushrooms, cracks, bugs, or even rotting from the inside out. This could mean a shorter lifespan and more maintenance to preserve the artwork.
  • • Give it shade. Direct sunlight is hard on it and will make it fade and crack. Can you plant a tree nearby or set up a sunshade that would fit your landscaping plan?
    • Set it on a platform. One possible solution would be to cut the tree entirely, grind out the roots, and pour in a concrete base (use rebar). The carving would then be placed upon the cement base with ¼” flat metal spacers underneath (for air to flow), and fastened with angle brackets to the concrete pad. The concrete pad would have to cure at least a week before the carving is reinstalled.
    • Clear the debris. Blow out any rain, dirt, leaves, or snow that collects in crevices of the carving.
    • Protect your carving. Covering your carving for a season will damage the varnish and invite rot and mold. Simply keep it clean. If you do cover your carving use a tarp for temporary covering during inclement weather. 
    • Treat your carving. When your carving begins to fade, treat it with satin spar varnish one to three times per year.

• Finished Outdoor Carvings: Most chainsaw carvings are designed for outdoor display.
  • Give it shade. Try to keep it away from heat or the hot sun.
  • Set it on a platform. A pad of concrete, gravel, bricks, another stump, or pressure treated blocks under the carving allow for airflow and drainage. Do not set your carving directly onto soil or grass.
  • Clear the debris. Blow out any rain, dirt, leaves, or snow that collects in crevices of the carving.
  • Store your carving. In winter, if possible, try to place your carving under a covered, outdoor area. Ice and snow can penetrate cracks and force them apart when freezing. You could place it in a cool garage or shed during off-seasons.
  • Treat your carving. When your carving begins to fade, treat it with satin spar varnish one to three times per year.

• Finished Indoor Carvings: Most chainsaw carvings are designed for outdoor display, but may be acclimated to indoors.
  • If directed, your sculpture can be brought inside immediately.
    • Don’t set it in direct sunlight or by a heat source or a dehumidifier.
    • If your carving doesn’t have feet installed then don’t set your carving directly on the floor or table. It may leave moisture spots. Elevate it from the floor onto a platform, trivet or stool so that it prevents direct contact with the furniture.
  • Indoor carvings are not prone to fade much unless in contact with the sun.
  • Unless otherwise directed, the sculpture needs to be gradually acclimated to indoor conditions.
    • Set your carving outdoors in a dry shady spot for a few days.
    • Elevate it off the ground (e.g. bricks, etc.).
    • After the carving has set in the dry outside for a few days, it can be moved indoors.

Your carving is guaranteed to crack! Items sold, are sold as is. However, I will do all that I can to work with you to try to repair major cracks or fading. Repairs, if needed, will be after the piece has dried for about a year. For questions or concerns please contact me.

Some of my carvings have prices posted in the Shop section of my site. Other carvings might come from your own ideas. Here are some general factors that go into pricing my wood carvings.

Time is my consideration behind all quotes since a large carving may take the same amount of time as a smaller item with more detail and complexity. All prices will be contracted before carving. 

• How I Price a Carving/Project:
  • Carving the same item in each type of wood can take me longer time and takes more of a toll on myself and the chainsaw.
    • Soft woods: $100 per hour per cubic foot.
    • Medium woods: $125 per hour per cubic foot.
    • Hard woods: $150 per hour per cubic foot.
    • General painting, oiling, varnishing, repairing, maintenance: $100 per hour
  • Types of wood.
    • Soft woods (Janka 300-600, i.e. Cottonwood, Pine, Basswood, Spruce, Fir).
    • Medium hard woods (Janka 700-950, i.e. Elm, Black Ash, Birch, Red Maple).
    • Hard woods (Janka 1,000-1880, i.e. Hard Maple, Walnut, Oak, White Ash, Locust, Hickory).
    • For reference you can check out the cubic feet calculator (click here) and the wood database (click here).  
• Additional Expenses:
  • Commissioned carving requiring wood that is particularly in demand (i.e. walnut or cherry) or hard to find the size or type, may be delayed or charged extra for the purchase of such wood.
  • Commissioned carvings for public entities or venues will have an additional $100 per cubic foot.
  • Commissioned carvings may also be marked up a percentage based on the complexity or time restraints. Complexity is generally due to the extra challenge or detail of the artwork. 
    • • Normal challenge and or no rush: no rate change
      • Medium challenge and or a deadline: medium complexity: +15-20%
      • Very challenging or detailed and or having tight time restraints: very complex: 30-40%
  • On-site carvings may be subject to an additional daily charge. I will discuss this in an estimate. There are on-site expenses such as insurance, mileage, transporting supplies necessary for carving, adding detail, adding paint or stain to a carving, gluing or assembling pieces together, preserving your new artwork with oil or varnish, and prepping an item for certain weather or indoor conditions.
  • Additional expenses for on-site carvings or shows:
    • Mileage – distances over 10 miles from South Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I generally will charge for $1.50 every mile from South Milwaukee and back to South Milwaukee. Projects that require travel and overnight stays the current GSA rates will apply (link). My schedule can be pretty full at times; so start and finish times can depend on the time of year, but we will discuss these things. 
    • Weather issues requiring a larger canopy ($350+)
    • Scaffolding ($200+ per day / $400+ per week)
    • Boom Lift ($600+ per day / $1,200+ per week)
    • Setting up boundaries, props, and other miscellaneous items or complexities will need to be discussed prior to signing a contract. 
    • Cement base: To preserve the life of a large outdoor carving, a customer may elect to cut off the trunk/stump and then reset it on a cement base once it has been carved. This method will keep the stump off the ground and away from the root system. Carvings that are attached to the root system still have live roots pulling in moister which may create unpleasant aging to the art piece. Choosing to have a cement base includes a lot more time, effort, and materials. If the carving is heavy the concrete should have a good week to cure.
  • Most on-site/commissioned carvings from start to finish will involve a minimum of four hours of work. That includes the prep, the carving, and preserving your artwork. Anything over 4 cubic feet will likely take more than one eight-hour day.
  • I won’t cut or clear your tree. You will need to hire a tree service to come and cut it off to your specification before I carve. Ask me, I can recommend some tree removal specialists.

In General Pricing: Pricing is considered first by the amount of time it takes to complete the carving. Size can matter as much as detail. My going rate starts at $100 per hour. Some of the seasonal and common items are discounted even though they may take 1-2 hours to complete.

Pricing Samples for simple/seasonal items:

Pumpkins/Mushroom may or may not include paint and varnish. When you order, please indicate your preference for color/natural. The price quotes are for softer woods. Sizes are approximate.

• Very Small: $25-35 (3-6″ Pumpkin diameter & height; Mushroom 3-6″ diameter & 6-12″ height)
• Small: $45 (Pumpkin 7” diameter & 7″ height; Mushroom 7″ top & 12-18″ height)
• Medium: $65 (Pumpkin 9” diameter &  9” height; Mushroom 9-12″ top & 16-24″ height)
• Large: $85 (Pumpkin 12” diameter & 12” height; Mushroom 12-14″ & 24-36″ height)
• Sets sold at discount.

*Pumpkin measurements do not include the stem. Rough carved pumpkins/mushrooms (no sanding, paint/varnish) will be $10 less (each). Special orders or sets may take extra time to fulfill and pricing will be discussed ahead of time. Sets will be priced with a discount. All wood carvings are a part of the austere and rugged nature of the wood and chainsaw; naturally, your piece will be rustic, form cracks, and give the appearance of chainsaw marks. Please see FAQ’s for woodcarving care.

Trees may or may not include paint or varnish. When you order, please indicate your preference for color/natural. The price quotes are for softer woods. Sizes are approximate.

• very small – $15 (2-3″ diameter, 8-14” high)
• small – $35 (4-6″ diameter, 14” high)
• medium – $50 (6-8” diameter, 20” high)
• large – $75 (9-10” diameter, 24” high)
• Sets are sold at discount.

*Trees come in a variety of styles and are a unique piece of art. Diameters sizes above are represented as ranges because they are not always a perfect circle. Rough carved trees (no sanding, paint/varnish) will be $10 less (each).  Special orders or sets may take extra time to fulfill and pricing will be discussed ahead of time. There will be a discount for sets. All wood carvings are a part of the austere and rugged nature of the wood and chainsaw; naturally, your piece will be rustic, form cracks, and give the appearance of chainsaw marks. Please see FAQ’s for woodcarving care.

Carved Bears: includes burning and varnish. The price quotes are for softer woods.

• baby bear – $50 (9″ x 17″)
• very small – $100 (10″ x 24″)
• small – $200 (12″ x 36″)
• medium – $480-850 (15″x 4’)
• large – $880-1,200 (18″ x 5’)
• X-Large – $1,500-2,000 (2’ x 6’)
• XX-Large – $2,500-3,500 (2’ x 8’)

*Requesting certain details, time constraints, or an on-site carving are considered special orders and prices will be discussed ahead of time. Snowmen or upright animals will generally run a similar price range with the bears. All wood carvings are a part of the austere and rugged nature of the wood and chainsaw; naturally, your piece will be rustic, form cracks, and give the appearance of chainsaw marks.

Eagles/Birds: includes burning, paint, and varnish. When you order, we can discuss details of position, color, etc. The price quotes are for softer woods and do not include other art sometimes included with birds (i.e. WELCOME, BLESSED, a flag, etc.).

Perched birds have their wings folded:

• Small song birds – $150 (relatively close to life sized)
• Small perched – $350 (12″ x 24″)
• Medium perched – $650 (15″ x 3’)
• Large perched – $800 (18″ x 4’)

Birds with wings out may include piecing parts together and generally include more detail work. Call me for quotes.

*All wood carvings are a part of the austere and rugged nature of the wood and chainsaw; naturally, your piece will be rustic, form cracks, and give the appearance of chainsaw marks. Please see FAQ’s for woodcarving care.

If you refer someone, and they mention your name when they order, you will receive a 20% or $10 discount off one future order (whichever discount is higher). A repeat customer will receive one 10% discount on one future order / commission. 

Items are not generally suitable for shipping. Most items must be picked up. I can deliver within a 50 mile radius from South Milwaukee, Wisconsin. In most cases, I will deliver for free in South Milwaukee, Oak Creek, and Franklin. When I deliver outside my area, I will charge for every 10 miles from South Milwaukee and back to South Milwaukee multiplied by the current average gas price in South Milwaukee. Also, if you are able to set me up with other work in your area (or give referrals) – I will definitely get you a deal!

As much as possible! I want you to be pleased with my art and service. You must remember that your carving will crack. The cracking is due to humidity changes and small cracks are in no way considered a defect. It is part of the natural process, and it adds a rugged character to your piece.

Carvings are sold as is. However, I will do all that I can to work with you to try to repair cracks or fading – even if you have not followed the, “How to Care for your Carving” guide. Ultimately, I would love for you to be pleased with the final product and the aging process of the artwork. 

My repair rate is $60 an hour. I generally wait about a year after I finish a carving before I do any repair work. Please save a few chunks of wood from the carving project and set them in a safe (dry) place out of the sun. I can use these to fit into any cracks. See the pictures below with the crack forming after one year, the second picture is a wedge I cut and glued in, the third picture shows how it has been reshaped and sanded, and the final picture is the repainting and varnishing.

Yes, please contact me to discuss wholesale prices and suggested retail prices.

Yes! I have carved for shows or venues where I donate a portion of the proceeds to the cause. Please share your idea with me!

• Chip Carvings: (a.k.a. Scratch Carvings) These are generally simple hand carvings, displayed on boards or on a flat surface (i.e. doors, walls, etc.). The artist uses knives, chisels, and gouges to “chip” out an ornamental design. This 3D effect is usually shows floral or geometric shapes.
• Low Relief: (a.k.a. Bas-Relief or Shallow Relief) These carvings are raised above the background usually under 1/2″ in depth, creating a 3D effect.
• High Relief: High relief creates a range of depths where images and figures rise above the background anywhere from 1/2″ to 2″ or more.
• Deep Relief: These reliefs are similar to high relief carvings except the range of depth is more extensive; relief depths are deeper than 2″ creating a more complex 3D effect.
• Pierced Relief: Often the artists begins with a milled slabs from a log. They are usually designed for display indoors on a wall. Carvers incorporate various relief carving techniques, but “pierce” sections where the wood is entirely removed inside certain spaces.
• 3D Sculptures: These carvings vary in size and can be viewed from every angle.
• Practical Items: I enjoy making ornamental walking sticks, canes, benches, and bowls to be used or displayed.
• Block Carvings/Prints: These are blocks of wood, linoleum, or other items that are used with ink to make prints on specialty paper or T-shirts.
• Digital Drawings / Logos
• Painting or drawings

I can carve items that can be placed in a variety of outdoor settings (indoor upon special request): porch, side of house, door hanging, garden, hanging from ceiling, displayed on a wall, statues, name logs, etc.

• Winter: nutcracker, cardinal in snow, snowman, bear, snow owl, fox, evergreen tree, manger scene, large pine cone, church, wreath, penguin
• Spring: flowers, song birds, small animals, bird house, cross, turtle, frog, mushroom, fawn, snail, feather
• Summer: eagle, bear, chair/bench, American flags, welcome signs, dragon fly, parrot, turtle, fish, sea creatures, horses, watermelon slices
• Fall: bear, pumpkins, turkey, deer, duck, maple or oak leaf, antlers, acorns, candy corns, squirrels, mushrooms, feathers, football related items

I have carved in Illinois, Nebraska, and northern Wisconsin in Lincoln County. I will travel for the right price. If you can find other work for me in your area I will give you a discount. Check out my FAQs about prices.  Please contact me for a quote.

I like to use wood that people don’t want. Often people remove a dead or diseased tree and want to get rid of it. The emerald ash borer has been at work destroying the ash trees of Wisconsin. The ash wood is a hard wood and is moderately challenging to work with. Woods like Cottonwood, Evergreens, Basswood are usually softer to work with and more available – they still make great artwork. Other woods like Walnut, Oak, Maple, Mulberry, Locust, and Hickory are harder woods and pose more challenges to cut with the chainsaw, but may have greater detail, luster and endurance. The wood you receive will often be the unique sampling of what is available. Special requests may cost extra or take more time to get.

It depends on what the customer wants. It is generally easier to carve a fresh piece of wood, but if it is not sealed properly right away then it can crack a lot. However, dry wood still has moisture and cracks can still develop where you don’t want them. The biggest deal is how they are prepared. Some carvings I do for seasonal are sealed or prepared very little. It will be up to the customer to properly care for that piece. See Woodcarving Care.